Most of the patterns for woven garments have sleeve cap ease. Typically in knit garments, the sleeves are sewn in flat (as opposed to sewing. Actually I'd say I use this most often for knits. Okie dokie, here we go: how to do a flat sleeve insertion on the Banksia Blouse // tutorial on Megan. By knitting them flat, the sweater can just lie there politely while I work back and forth across the sleeve. To me, it's a much more pleasant.
There are also many different methods; below is the simplest and most common method. You may see easing using a sleeve head, with just pins or with steam. I also ease just using my finger to stop the feed while sewing the easing stitch. But I am not going to go there this time.
First and foremost, mark the notches on the sleeve and on the armhole. You see that I do a little snip. Snipping within the seam allowance never caused any trouble for me, especially when I serge finish the raw edges. Just mark them however you like and are comfortable with. Before sewing the sleeve seam the long vertical one that makes the sleeve a tube , I sew two lines of easing stitch on the sleeve cap, one is a hairline next to the seam line in the seam allowance, the second one in the seam allowance.
They run from the front single notch to the back double notch. I use a 5 mm stitch length. With that done, now I can sew the sleeve into a tube. Always press before sewing it to an intersecting seam.
If you are finishing the raw edges, now is that time to do it. Now I turn sleeve and the bodice to the right side. Put them next to each other and make sure that the sleeve is in the correct position: the single notch is in the front and the double notch is in the back.
I think this is a common problem; people sew the sleeve backward. With that verified, I can put the right sides together. I usually open the bodice and turn it to the wrong side to make its right side against the right side of the sleeve.
The spots I pin first are: 1 the top notch of the sleeve to the shoulder seam; 2 the single notch on the sleeve to the single notch on the armhole; 3 the double notch on the sleeve to the double notch on the armhole; and 4 the sleeve seam to the side seam of the bodice.
They have the same length and should match exactly. Yes, I do have a pinning problem, but I have no intention of getting rid of my habit, unless someone can convince me it would produce better result otherwise. However, the sleeve cap part is what we need to pay attention to. Notice that the sleeve cap is longer then the armhole. Pull and distribute until the length matches the armhole.
You do that for both the front and the back. And then pin pin pin pin pin. Now you can take it the sewing machine. I go straight to the sewing machine. Also let me take a bit of a detour. Some people like to have the armhole side against the feed dog. Some like to have the sleeve side against the feed dog. There are arguments for each method, and I think both are legitimate. The later group thinks that when the sleeve side is against the feed dog, the feed dog can help ease the fabric ever so slightly.
I have done both. I found that either way works well for me. I encourage you to try both and see which one you like best. Now I stitch around the armhole. What happens if there is a pucker or two or five? You can undo that little portion and retry. And for some minuscule pucker, you may be able to steam it out even.
Turn your garment inside out, but leave your sleeve right side out. Stick it in the sleeve hole and pin in all around. Then sew it up! The press it. Finish your seam however you want. Ease and stay stitching take more time but are totally worth it! I always get fast and nice results from sewing sleeves in flat.
You said it! Hat Needle? Tight bend in the rows? Does that help? How do I pick up and knit stitches at the beginning AND end of the live sleeve stitches? I can do the ones to the left of the under arm as you look at the RS — the first 4-plus-1 but at the end?
What with? You pick up and knit underarm stitches starting in the middle of the underarm. Then end with picking up and knitting the other half of underarm stitches. I hope this helps! I was finding using a magic loop when knitting in cotton I live in a warm climate and a 10ply wool sweater is not going to get worn was not giving a neat and even stitch result. In other BT patterns, the selvedges are garter or twisted garter stitch. I got frustrated with magic loop halfway down a sleeve once, switched to knotting back and forth and the difference in quality and gauge even after blocking was amazing.
Thank you! I always knit my sleeves flat. It just makes a better sleeve, IMO, and it is faster and more pleasant, especially if you are knitting stripes.
At the beginning awkward stage, I just use two needles, changing from one to the other until the sleeve flattens out. Also, if you mark your decreases with a running thread on each side, it makes the seaming even more of a breeze. I also knit flat sleeves on sweaters in the round only ever knit one in the round she eve and boy was it a chore. Karen, I often choose to knit sleeves flat, mostly to avoid switching to dpns.
However, if the sleeve is loose-fitting and wide enough, I use a short circular needle. I finish a sleeve in a couple of hours, without spinning the sweater in my lap. I put the sweater body in my lap, knit around the sleeve as far as possible, until it is twisted against the body. Then I untwist the sleeve and knit the rest of the round. No need to move the sweater.
The process is similar to an owl twisting its head to look around over one shoulder, then back around to look over the other shoulder. You just clarified the problem and solution. Thank you. Elizabeth Zimmerman was a big believer in seams for structure so you are in excellent company. This may have made me a sweater knitter. OK, so one of my big beefs with top down sweaters is that gauge can really change in the round vs. So when I knit a cardigan top-down, the main part is always back and forth with the sleeve in the round.
I just finished a sweater for my daughter like this and I had to redo the sleeves because they were too tight! I totally agree that knitting sleeves on DPNs with the weight of the sweater is really annoying!
Seams provide structure. Just as we would turn into shapeless puddles without our skeletons, a sweater with no seams can become a shapeless mass over time if the yarn is lacking in body or elasticity. So I salute you for pointing this out to your readers and creating a pattern with stabilizing seams. To the seamless whiners, seaming has been a part of knitting for centuries so put on your big kid panties and learn about it.
I agree with Susan about the gauge change. I mostly knit cardigans, so the knit in the round sleeves need a bigger needle. I also like to knit both sleeves at the same time so that the shaping is ide tidal.